“Everyone thinks that the lesson of Icarus is not to fly too close to the sun, but what if it is to build better wings?” said Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry backstage after kicking off couture with a collection named after the Greek myth. With the recent inauguration of a US president and an uneasy ceasefire in Gaza in the background, that sentiment hit home.

“Couture is always offering us escape, a fantasy, a world where beauty reigns. That offering is resonating deeply this year,” said Jordan Roth, a Broadway producer and self-proclaimed couture devotee.