Loewe moving to a presentation format for PFW

The official Paris Fashion Week schedule is out. All eyes will be on three key debuts: Sarah Burton’s runway show for Givenchy, Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford and Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten.

Among the most notable absentees from the show schedule is Loewe, which is switching to a co-ed presentation format instead. (Loewe was absent from the Paris Men’s schedule in January, too.) This comes amid swirling rumours that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, previously of Proenza Schouler, are to succeed Jonathan Anderson at the Spanish house. Expect another season of intense fashion gossip.

Altogether, the Autumn/Winter 2025 women’s ready-to-wear calendar, which will run from 3 March to 11 March, features a total of 72 shows and 37 presentations — in line with that of AW24. “This calendar shows the vitality of Paris, and international diversity with both established brands and promising young designers,” says Pascal Morand, executive president of Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

One very noticeable newcomer to the show calendar is Alaïa. The house founder Azzedine Alaïa famously opted out of Paris Fashion Week, choosing to show on his own time instead. Under its current creative director Pieter Mulier, the house has been often showing its ready-to-wear collections during Paris couture with a one-off in New York in September 2024. This marks the first time the maison enters the official Paris RTW schedule.

Another arrival is Tom Ford. The Estée Lauder-owned house has been showing in Milan lately, but opted for Paris for the debut show of its new creative director Ackermann.

Christopher Esber, who scooped the 2024 Andam Prize, Hodakova, winner of the 2024 LVMH Prize, and Burc Akyol, an LVMH Prize finalist, also join the calendar.

In addition to Givenchy, this season’s schedule marks the return of Coperni, which showed off-calendar in Disneyland Paris last season at the tail end of PFW. Ludovic de Saint Sernin is also returning to the French capital, after a one-off in New York for AW24 and a couture collection as guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier. Kenzo (which hasn’t shown ready-to-wear since September 2020), Marine Serre, Undercover, Off-White and Véronique Leroy are also making comebacks.

Chanel will hold its second ready-to-wear show designed by the studio on 11 March. (It’s understood that Matthieu Blazy’s first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel will be presented in October 2025.) Other highlights will include Dior, Balenciaga, Chloé, Balmain, Alexander McQueen, Hermès, The Row, Victoria Beckham, Lacoste and Stella McCartney. Saint Laurent will close the curtain on 11 March. As previously reported, the Louvre will host a fundraising gala dinner on 4 March, coinciding with the ‘Louvre Couture’ exhibition to support the museum’s activities; dubbed ‘Le Grand Dîner’, it is being referenced by some as Paris’s answer to the Met Gala.

Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.

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