Sustainable fashion might not get much airtime over fashion month, but that doesn’t mean it’s not present. Each fashion capital plays host to a growing number of designers prioritising sustainability through their supply chains, design processes and business models. In the past, designers and brands leaned heavily on upcycling, but approaches to sustainability are becoming increasingly nuanced. Many of the designers Vogue Business interviewed for this story have their sights set firmly on their supply chains, promoting local crafts, generating job opportunities in their home towns and reworking their balance sheets to build in more equity for suppliers.

Here are the ones to watch.

Milan: Federico Cina

Italy is known for its craftsmanship, but many of its fractured supply chains are struggling to cope with the burden of compliance and to engage the next generation of workers. Former LVMH Prize finalist Federico Cina is looking to change that. His eponymous label, founded in 2019, is a celebration of not just Italian craft, but specifically his home region of Romagna. One of the brand’s signatures is a grape design inspired by the traditional Romagnola patterns often featured on tablecloths. The artisanal printing technique is only available at three boutique suppliers in Italy. “This kind of printing is used in almost all of our garments and it can only be done on natural fibres, so we are forced to use natural fibres,” says Stefano Buldrini, Cino’s childhood friend and business partner. “As you grow, the ecosystem around you grows. It’s a win-win for everybody.”