Nicklas Skovgaard burst onto the Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) scene a year and a half ago with a performance-based Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show, where dancer Britt Liberg dressed herself in looks from the collection, one by one, while dancing around the space. Since, Skovgaard has become one of the most talked about labels on the CPHFW schedule. And now, after a presentation last season, he’s returning to the runway on Tuesday, with a fresh show concept and a new design language that feels “a little more dramatic”.

Skovgaard is known for his playful silhouettes and ’80s-inspired high-octane glamour, including drop-waist dresses with pannier skirts, metallic and latex peplum tops and OTT draping in leather and jersey. But the designer is exploring a change of direction for AW25, to continue the momentum of his budding brand. “For quite some time, my past collections have gone into this very ’80s vibe,” he says. “When I started working on this collection back in autumn, I tried to take a step back and rethink some of the silhouettes that I was doing. There’s still an ’80s influence, but it’s a fresh take — that’s how I’d describe it.”